LIST OF CONTRIBUTORS                                                        6

PREFACE Jennifer Harris                                                             7

INTRODUCTION Jennifer Harris                                                8

I SURVEY OF TEXTILE TECHNIQUES

Jennifer Harris

1 Weaving                                                                                   16

2 Tapestry                                                                                   24

3 Rug weaving                                                                             28

4 Embroidery                                                                              31

5 Lace                                                                                        34

6 Dyeing and printing                                                                   36

7 Knitting                                                                                  46

8 Netting, knotting and crochet                                                    49

9 Felt and bark cloth                                                                   50

II SURVEY OF TEXTILES

THE ANCIENT WORLD

1 Introduction Joan Allgrove McDowell                                       54

2 The Mediterranean Joan Allgrove McDowell                            57

3 Central and northern Europe John-Peter Wild                           66

THE NEAR AND MIDDLE EAST

4 Sassanian textiles Pan Allgrove McDowell                                68

5 Early Islamic textiles Joan Allgrove McDowell                           71

6 Byzantine silks Anna Muthesius                                                 75

7 Safavid Iran (1501-1722) Joan Allgrove McDowell                  80

8 The Ottoman Empire Joan Allgrove McDowell                         86

9 Central Asian textiles Jennifer Wearden                                     91

10 Palestinian embroidery Shelagh Weir                                       96

INDIA AND PAKISTAN

11 Historical development and trade

Margaret Hall                                                                            102

12 Tribal textiles Margaret Hall                                                  114

CARPETS

13 Carpets of the Middle and Far East

Patricia L. Baker                                                                       118

THE FAR EAST

14 China Verity Wilson                                                             133

15 Japan Susan-Marie Best                                                       142

16 South-East Asia Sylvia Fraser-Lu                                         153

WESTERN EUROPE

17 Sicilian silks Anna Muthesius                                                 165

18 Italian silks (1300-1500) Lisa Monnas                                  167

19 Italian silks (1500-1900) Jacqueline Herald                           172

20 Spanish silks Jacqueline Herald                                             176

21 French silks (1650-1800) Lesley Miller                                180

22 Figured linen damasks Jacqueline Herald                               185

23 Tapestry Thomas Campbell                                                  188

24 Embroidery Santina M. Levey                                              200

25 Lace Santina M. Levey                                                         217

26 Printed textiles Jennifer Harris                                               224

CENTRAL AND EASTERN EUROPE

27 Eastern Europe Jennifer Wearden                                         236

28 Greece, the Greek Islands and Albania

Roderick R. Taylor                                                                    242

THE AMERICAS

29 Colonial North America (1700-1990s)

Mary Schoeser                                                                          250

30 Native North America Colin and Betty Taylor                       264

31 Latin America Chloé' Sayer and Penny Bateman                   273

AFRICA

32 North Africa Caroline Stone                                                 286

33 Sub-Saharan Africa and the offshore islands

John Mack                                                                                295

FURTHER READING AND SOURCES CITED                     306

GLOSSARY                                                                            312

ILLUSTRATION ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS                        315

INDEX                                                                                     317

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