Preface 7
1 QUEEN VICTORIA: A LIFE IN JEWELLERY 12
2 THE ROLE OF JEWELLERY, PUBLIC AND PRIVATE 80
3 JEWELLERY AND DRESS 110
4 THE LANGUAGE OF JEWELLERY 150
5 THE CULT OF NOVELTY 188
What the papers say: jewellery and topical events 197
Jewellery and scientific or technical inventions 200
The impact of the stage 214
Surprise, deception and not so hidden messages 218
Nature imitating nature: jewellery and animal products 225
6 BRITAIN AND THE WORLD 248
The International Exhibitions 250
Links with the East: India, the Islamic world, China and Japan 294
The role of `peasant' and regional jewellery from Continental Europe 316
7 NATIONALISM AND HISTORICAL STYLES IN JEWELLERY 330
Historical revival jewellery in England 337
Historicism in France: style romantique and Renaissance revival 354
Germany and the passion for Alt-Deutsch' 367
8 ARCHAEOLOGICAL DISCOVERIES AND NATIONAL IDENTITY 374
The Egyptian revival 379
The Assyrian revival 387
The Castellani and the Italian Risorgimento 398
The influence of Castellani outside Italy 426
The Scandinavian revival 437
The Celtic revival and Irish national identity 444
The recreation of tradition in Scotland 454
9 VICTORIAN CAMEOS 462
10 SOUVENIRS OF TRAVEL AT HOME AND ABROAD 482
Notes 506
Bibliography 539
Illustration acknowledgements 545
Index 547
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