Einleitung Wilhelm Lindemann                                                                      8

Zeitgeist. 100 Jahre Modeschmuck aus

Idar-Oberstein Anne-Barbara Knerr

Dank                                                                                                         11

Vom Talmi zum Modeschmuck                                                                  12

Idar-Oberstein als Industriestandort                                                           15

Historismus und Jugendstil. Vom 19.

Jahrhundert bis zum Ersten Weltkrieg                                                         28

Art Déco                                                                                                     34

Vorreiter des Art Déco in Idar-Oberstein                                                   34

Die 1920er und 1930er Jahre                                                                    41

Die 1950er Jahre                                                                                       50

Die 1960er und 1970er Jahre                                                                    53

Verwandte Produktgruppen: Galanteriewaren, Taschenbiigel und

Schuhschmuck                                                                                           64

Kunst und Fabrik - Die Stellung des Kiinstlers als Schmuckgestalter           74

Alfred Bauer - vom Mustermacher zum Schmuckgestalter                          76

Die Impulsgeberin Ruth Herrmann-Fiiller                                                    80

Der Schmuckgestalter Ludwig Bauer                                                          83

Schlusswort                                                                                               86

Firmen-Biographien

Jakob Bengel                                                                                             92

Friedrich Casper                                                                                      102

Walter Fischer                                                                                         106

Louis Gottlieb & Sôhne                                                                           116

Gottlieb & Wagner                                                                                  124

Carl August Haupt                                                                                   130

Max Keller                                                                                              138

Klein & Quenzer                                                                                     144

Carl Maurer Sohn                                                                                    154

Christ. Melsheimer Nachf.                                                                       162

Gebriider Schmidt                                                                                    172

Gebrüder Stern                                                                                        178

Verfahrenstechnisches Glossar                                                                 186

Namens-Register                                                                                     191

Introduction Wilhelm Lindemann                                                                  8

Zeitgeist. A Century of Idar-Oberstein

Costume Jewellery Anne-Barbara Knerr

Acknowledgements                                                                                   11

From talmi to costume jewellery                                                                 12

ldar-Oberstein as a manufacturing centre                                                    15

Historiscism and Jugendstil.

From the nineteenth century to the First World War                                    28

Art Déco                                                                                                   34

Heralds of Art Déco in Idar-Oberstein                                                       34

The 1920s and 1930s                                                                                41

The 1950s                                                                                                 50

The 1960s and 1970s                                                                                53

Related product groups: fashion accessories,

objets d'art, handbag bows

and shoe decoration                                                                                   64

Art and factory - The status of the artist as jewellery designer                     74

Alfred Bauer - From pattern maker to jewellery designer                            76

A source of inspiration: Ruth Herrmann-Fuller                                            80

Jewellery designer: Ludwig Bauer                                                               83

Conclusion                                                                                                86

Company Histories    

Jakob Bengel                                                                                             92

Friedrich Casper                                                                                      102

Walter Fischer                                                                                         106

Louis Gottlieb & SOhne                                                                          116

Gottlieb & Wagner                                                                                  124

Carl August Haupt                                                                                   130

Max Keller                                                                                              138

Klein & Quenzer                                                                                     144

Carl Maurer Sohn                                                                                    154

Christ. Melsheimer Nachf.                                                                       162

Gebrüder Schmidt                                                                                   172

Gebrüder Stern                                                                                        178

Glossary of technical terms                                                                       186

Index of names                                                                                        191

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